SAFDARJUNG TOMB - The last flicker in the lamp of Mughal architecture in India

'The last flicker in the lamp of Mughal architecture in Hindustan'. That's how this glorious tomb has been described by historians...and what an apt description! Tucked away in a quiet corner of the otherwise bustling road connecting Aurobindo Marg and Lodhi Road in the capital city of New Delhi, this vision in red sandstone is one of my favourite places in the city. Whenever I am in Delhi, I try to eke out some time for a relaxing visit here.

The first time I visited Safdarjung Tomb was way back in 2019, on a warm Sunday afternoon in March. My first reaction back then was astonishment. I was surprised to see that such a gorgeous tomb was not crowded at all inspite of it being a Sunday. This was an absolute contrast to the milling crowds I had faced in Lal Quila & Humayun's Tomb. Of course, this isn't the case anymore, and this tomb is no longer a 'hidden gem'. Ever since Instagram Reels took off, there are always many youngsters here, trying to make their next 'viral reel' here. Still, the monument area is so large, that you can enjoy a peaceful time here.

HISTORY

Safdarjung was one of the most powerful Nawabs of Awadh. When Mohammed Shah Ahmed Shah ascended the throne of the Mughal Empire in Delhi in 1748, Safdarjung was appointed as the Vazir (Prime Minister) of the empire with the title of Vazir ul-Mamalk-i-Hindustan. His reign as the Vazir was unfortunately a brutal one. The Emperor was a figurehead, with little concern for the empire, lost in women, opium and wine. Safdarjung, using the Emperor's weaknesses against him, usurped all the power and control of empire spanning across northern India. A lesser known fact of history is that Safdarjung's reign was so cruel, that the Emperor actually ended up requesting the brave Marathas to vanquish him. Sure enough, the Marathas defeated him and banished him from Delhi in 1753. The ignominy of the defeat was such that Safdarjung passed away the next year in 1754. After his death, his son Nawab Shujaud Daula accepted the supremacy of the Mughal emperor and pleaded with him to allow him to build a tomb for his late father in Delhi. Once granted the permission, the dutiful son got his father's tomb designed by an Abyssinian (modern day Ethiopian) architect.

HOW TO GET THERE

Located at the intersection of Safdarjung Road and Aurobindo Marg, Safdarjung Tomb is accessible by various modes of transport. Cars, cabs and autos are all suitable options to reach there. The nearest Delhi Metro station is the Jorbagh Metro Station (Yellow Line), which is just 300 metres away from the monument.

TICKETS

The tickets can be bought at the entrance gate of the monument. The ticket costs ₹25/- for Indian visitors and ₹300/- for foreigners. Children upto the age of 15 can enter for free.

TIMINGS

Day Timings : 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Night Timings: 7:30 p.m. to 9 pm

ARCHITECTURE

Built in the classic Mughal Charbagh architectural style, the tomb itself stands right in the centre of the garden, with beautiful fountains on the path approaching it.

The classic onion shaped dome, the beautiful red sandstone, and the meticulous geometry that is a mainstay of Indo-Islamic architecture, greeted me as I entered the main complex.

This is the facade of the main gate (pictured below) that greets you when you enter. Suffice to say, I was completely mesmerised by the frescoes in hues of yellow & blue, flanked by the red sandstone. In classic Mughal architecture style, the colourful muqarnas are given centerstage at the entrance.

A closer look at the gorgeous muqarnas, featuring intricate frescoes in yellows & blues.

This is the triangular angle of the tomb, and in my opinion, this is where the architectural elements of the monument truly shine through! The red + light brown sandstone, the gorgeous chhatris, muqarnas, the grand pishtaq (entrance to the vault like rooms) and the arches, all stand tall in all their glory.

I've said this before and I'll say this again, when in India, don't forget to look up! This resplendent ceiling dazzled me when I entered the precincts of the actual tomb. Biomorphic patterns and tessellations carved into the stone, make the tomb's interiors a delight to look at!

The actual tomb of Safdarjung lies in the centre of the main hall. Four arched doorways open towards the garden in each direction. The main hall is surrounded by four arched hallways, which later lead towards the gardens. These little spaces are also replete with the most gorgeous muqarnas and arches. The entire interiors are built using pale brown and yellow sandstone.

The three domed mosque mosque with stripes (an unusual architectural style for a mosque dome) is situated at the eastern side of the complex, which I passed by when I entered the main monument.

In 2019, the Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India embarked upon a massive illumination drive for monuments across the country. Magnificent heritage sites across the nation were illuminated with gorgeous lighting and the monuments were then opened for night viewing for all visitors. Safdarjung Tomb was one of the first sites to be decked up in the stunning yellow lights and sure enough, I visited it night to see it for myself. And my mind was blown! I mean, look at the pictures below!

As can be seen from the pictures, Safdarjung Tomb is one of the most glorious monuments in Delhi, and is a must-visit when you're in the city! Hope my experience inspires you to visit this gem in the heart of the capital city of India.